B_Reparaties - B_Repairs (24.05.2008 )

Problem: Temperature Sender... see Electrics (N)

Problem: B(30) Starter Engine M35G fail.

Pleas also have a look at :http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_motor

As the starter on the Sabra produced a high whining sound and did not crank, an action was needed.
The Sabra is equipped with the Lucas starter motor type M35G. There are two types of M35G, one with a circlips on the armature shaft that holds the pinion on the shaft ( LU 25022), the other with a castle nut with split pin that has the same effect (LU25079).
The Lucas M35J is internally different but is according to several sources interchangeble on the car.
Both are very common types of starters on British cars from 50ies till 70ies.

Starters ### Tools

1 Take off the starter motor. Disconnect the battery, then disconnect the one cable that leads to the starter motor.
Interesting is that the Sabra has a kind of cap tapped into the gearbox casing that hides the top of the starter ( the pinion , drive dog and spring). It can be taken off by prying with a screwdriver and allows inspection of that part of the starter motor ( could allow greasing it if needed). In my case several bits jumped out of that hole when I pried the cap off, so revealed the need of repairing.
Take off the bolt at the lowest part first; it is only a bolt, thread is in the motor block; easy access from underneath the car.
Take off the upper bolt + nut. No easy access.
The head of the bolt is just visible between the engine and the body from the engine bay; it is not visible , nor reachable from underneath the car. A spanner with an angle can be held on it with one hand while turning the nut off with the other hand. To reach the nut a “knee” is needed on a 9/16” , 15 mm. It is a self –locking nut ( nylock style).
Take off the starter from underneath the car; be careful not to damage the brake light contact on the brake line; when pulling off the starter, it comes very near.

Bendix Bendix2

2 Check the starter motor. On the housing there is marked M35G the production and date serial number. The brushes can be checked by removing a cover round the body of the starter. Pull away the metal springs and take out the brushes while they stay attached.
If Ok put them back into the rail and let the spring rest to the side of the brush till everything is reasssembled. Take out two long screws and take off the front plate. So the armature with the dog and the front plate slide out of the housing.
If needed you can pry off the back plate after freeing the electrical connection ( 1 nut); there is a paper joint that can stick a bit; free it with a sharp knife. The armature can be checked; the copper part where the brushes are moving over can be cleaned and the grooves can be “opened” with a sharp knife. Play in the bushes can now be checked.
A complete overhaul set is available fe. on Ebay ( includes bushes , brushes, washers etc; price some 13€ + postage in 2011) Pinion can be checked and regreased with Moly grease.
In my case everything looked ok , except that the circlips that holds the washer and spring and pinion on the armature shaft had come out of the groove and had ground away all the metal on the shaft till it fell off. See photos.

head Sideremoved

It was mended as follows. The top of the shaft from where the circlips groove had been was welded (MIG welder) till it was thicker than the original shaft. Then the shaft was machined down to the same dimension as the rest of the shaft. A new groove was cut into the shaft. All parts could then be reassembled. The circlips is very hard metal. Pry it open with a scerwdriver used as a cone shaped tool, then slide it over the shaft and slide it down with gentle taps with a hammer and chisel till it clicks into the groove.
Clean the area, for when the circlips jumps away , you will need good glasses to find it.You have compressed the spring on the shaft before ( easy) so that the groove is free and so that there is no pressure on the washer. Once the circlips is in the groove release the spring and the washer presses against the circlips.


Reassemble the armature into the housing and then push the 4 brushes back into the rail against the armature and put the springs on top. Be careful , some wires shouldn't touch the body. Put the starter motor back in its place and fix the bottom screw first.

Parts info: Overhaul kits via Ebay Spare parts: several suppliers in UK (fe www/scparts.co.uk)

Probleem: B(30) Crankshaft pulley oil seal replacement.

Geen speciale problemen: oliekeerring gevonden bij AKN (zie adressen) 

RINGSEAL afdichtingen 41.27x63.5x93AS aan 177-Fr + BTW (Jef Neefs)

Probleem: B Vriespastilles - Core plugs

Juiste maat 41,6 mm dikte 9.5 mm schijnt courant te zijn, gevonden bij BBC.
Er zijn er drie, met dezelfde maat, twee links opzij en n achteraan, inscriptie (bij Jacques): "Dornam 555 0.30". (Jef Neefs)

Problem: B Valve stem seals

For several years my Sabra was leaving a smoke-signal when I had just started.  Doesn't give a good impression when you start your engine and drive away, leaving the circumspectors coughing in the smoke.  It was only for a short time after I had started the engine, normally-later the outlet would show nice grey (after a ride) but after a 15min stop the engine gave the impression of being "total loss" - for a km or so, further on it hardly smoked.

Diagnosis was: bad valve stem seals.  Now the Sabra has "umbrella-seals", not easy to find. They work like an rrrrrrr-umbrella simply by moving the oil, leaking down, away from the valve stem guides.  So preventing it from leaking onto the inlet or outlet-pipes and/or into the combustion chamber.  They should be rubber-like (the seller said "Don't call this rubber, it's poly..something!"  The ones in my car were like bakelite (remember the Belgian inventor).

At last I found them with http://www.speedshop.be specialised in BIG American cars and boats.  I had "done" quite some shops and here (when I showed them the old bakelite-like seals) they didn't ask me "what's that" but "how many".  Intrigued when I said "nine".

The rest was quite easy: bought a fantastic tool with "Van der Raay" in Deurne (see Adresses). It hooks under the rocker shaft bolts so you have the strength to push down the valves.
Took this picture because at first it wasn't for sale. He just lended it to me for the job. So I took this picture to be able to make it for myself when needed. Later I bought it anyway.  

I ruined a good spark-plug, removing the insulator as far as possible and removing the inner conductor, then I soldered a small pipe on it so I could put air pressure above the pistons.
Do not, like I did, try to drill out the insulator of the spark plugs.  It's tremendously hard. You can only attack it with a cold-cisel designed for stone. (Ruined several widia-drills).

First removed the rocker cover and the rocker shaft, take care for the pipe that leads oil to the rocker shaft.:



Then one by one I screwed back in the rocker shaft retaining bolts:

While pushing up the valves (with air pressure (7.5kg/cm)) I managed to compress, one after another, the valve springs, then removed the valve stem split taper cotters, the upper spring-seats and the valve stem seals.  Put in the new umbrella-seals, put on the valve-springs and valve spring seats and the split taper cotters after compressing the valve springs again against the air pressure that held the valves up. Didn't have enough hands (nor fans) to take pictures of every step.

When you do this, make sure every piston you're dealing with, is in upper position and the engine is in first or rear gear with handbrake fully locked (if not you'll push the car forward or backwards by putting air-pressure above the piston). When a valve opens when you push the valve-seat,  you could give the upper-spring-seat a tick with a hammer  to prevent it from locking together and/or you could poor some oil through the spark-plug-hole to prevent air from escaping along the cylinder walls (had to do this on my third cylinder).

The first pistons looked nice (silver-like) (looking through the spark-plug-hole) but the third was dark brown and there was this seal:


Clearly this "seal" (with one third of the upper side missing) was forcing oil to leak into the valve stem guides;  the difference between the third and the other pistons was prominent.

Afterwards I also renewed the seals of the oil-pressure-pipe.  the O-ring below (included in decoke-sets) didn't seem to be ready for the job anymore.

If you don't manage to compress the valve-springs with the tool, (piston in upper position) your engine could be worn too much because mine had done 80.000km when I did this repair and 80.000km is nice for sixties-cars.



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