J_Reparaties - J_Repairs (30.04.2013 )
Probleem J: Otter switch replacement/repair
Due to an original Otter switch , refusing to switch off, except when kicked with a hammer…I decided to repair/replace.
1- Coolcat www.coolcatcorp.com in US.: they sell a copy with modern internal switch and one spade connector. Switch on at 185°F ( is ok) , no switch off temp. Price 39,95$. Heavy postage charges for sending to Europe, so only interesting for US owners.
The internal switch here is a Mitsubishi one. For those who want to make a repair using the original Otter branded cover, they could get out the old switch itself, removing the three clamps and glue a new one in. Could be a nice repair. You can buy the Mitsubishi switch under nr MB007639. Search the internet , very different prizes. Lowest = http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Japanese-vehicle-Mitsubishi-Denso-temperature-switch-OEM-NO-MB-007639-071400-3350/817237358.html at $1,80 !!
Also sold as ACDelco C1808, but much more expensive under this name.
2- Barratt’s, www.sngbarratt.com . Difficult to find on their new website, unless they improved it, but I found it in an earlier version and finally called them. Same reference car, Jaguar E type.Part number is C45086. Switch on temperature is 92° c , switch off 87 °C. It is the same triangular shape , but it has two pins instead of one spade connector.Price is 21£+ postage.
The replacement is easy.
Clean the copper Otter switch housing, put a new gasket if needed , and the replacement Otter switch can be placed and fixed. I had to widen the holes because the three screws on the main part were not exactly at the same distance from each other. I drilled with a drill 1 mm wider than the hole and the switch fell in its place perfectly.Cut off the ends of the original wire and put on two connectors. I used two connections for bullet type connectors squeezed a bit till they made good contact and soldered them on the wire for extra contact. A modern double connector that goes right unto the pins is also available ( at a price ) at Barratt’s, but I preferred the “vintage” look of the two wires and the two connectors.
That’s all folks.
Mine works a treat. The fan switches on at correct temperature on the temp gauge and switches off after 3 to 4 minutes at idle.
I had an overrider switch installed together with a warning lamp on the dash when I had to switch on off manually. As they are still there I kept them in working order, so in the unlikely event the switch doesn’t behave I can still switch on/off the fan. Furthermore I see the warning light on when the fan switches on automatically, which is always reassuring.
Therefore you only have to add a spade contact that allows you to put two wires on the spade where the Otter switch is connected to the Lucas Relay ( extreme left side connector I think).
The fan motor has always live feed , directly connected at starter solenoid spare spade, so that nothing interferes with the rev meter ( see another thread )and is protected by an in line fuse of 30Amps.
Connection is through the original Lucas relay.
Probleem J: Thermostat
around for some time with the cooling system. Seems to work the combination of:
Problem J: Cooling (added 29/08/2005)
When I bought my
Sabra in 1975 it was overheating - allways, I got to believe it was just poor
Car had been
long driven without antifreeze, so when I purged the water it was allways VERY
Came up with the
heater fan of an MGB (nice car to ask for at scrap-yards or shops)(the engine is
bigger but it fits nicely in the hole where it should be.). I bought the
62-70-odd (one speed only) type.
Didn't climb the Mont Ventoux at temperatures of over 30* but "Clem", watching his gauges wouldn't have noticed anything special today as with a Sabra you only hear the fan-engine when the engine is off (Scimitars get kind of an helicopter-sound when the fan switches on)..
I gave the relay
- controlled by the otter switch - a separate (secured) lead of 20 Amps that's
allways on 12V even when ignition is off.
Problem J: Cooling (added 11/07/2006)
On the road to the last (July 02, 2006)-meeting I noticed that at 130km/h that when the warning light of the fan came on, temperature didn't drop anymore.
Noticed that the fuse to the fan had blown. Put in a new one that blew immediately. Got to the meeting and back home without problems: the fan is only needed at very low speeds. I took of the fan-engine and dismantled it: saw no problems nor causes. For now I can only conclude that the MGB-fan (meant for use inside the car - and showing ventliation-holes at the front-side) must have got current when it was blocked by snow and ice (last winter), and that the permanent magnets have changed their magnetism under influence of the current flowing through the blocked rotor.
I bought the same fan-engine (bought again with Anglo Parts) and put it in: no problems anymore
but as long as I have no real cause of the engine going wrong I'm not satisfied.
A fan-engine should work longer than one year!
Problem J: Cooling (added 25/10/2007)
Jacques provided us with a sketch of the cooling-heating hoses.
Problem J: Cooling (added 25/10/2007)
This is part 200062, the Sabra's one is Reliant-made aluminum and was corroded and leaked.
Mail me if you have add ons: Contact