Picture Versailles 1976
André's pictures are always better: must include this one:
thirty years after the above
Pic Richard Dredge
Sabra ST4878 stage II (double SU-carburettor)
Numberplate: AEM-879 since August 4th, 2000 but
the car since 1975.
First use 12.06.1967, by a Mr Appel (reknown
architect in Antwerp), second
owner is Mr Pauwels, still
interested in Sabra's, to tell Mr Pauwels' story we needed a seperate page: Owners
Bought the car and got the numberplate BKB-992 July
Engine: 1703 Ford Zephyr so the one that should be in it
but not the original one, mine misses the special oil-filler-cap (should have replaced
it)and the chromium rocker-cover.
The original engine ran some 500 miles before breaking down.
Then found a mecanic who had bought a stock of the English Army including some
Zephyr-4 engines and the man hung one in my Sabra (thus my purchase-price was doubled).
Pity I didn't salvage the chromium rocker cover.
Color bleu: state: poor, originally was
dark-red. The car suffered from several collisions at the right front side.
Had to correct somewhat to the frame and certainly to the motor-hood, renewed the inner -
mudguard at the right side. We hope to get the car straight enough to have it
sprayed (again in bleu) (once-upon-a-time).
The chrome-wings at the rear were so thin I had them renewed.
The chrome-points are removed, think I'll have them renewed too.
The release-mechanism of the bonnet was missing and replaced by two rubber straps (see
picture above), made kind of a copy of the original mechanisme - 2004 bought the
original set from Markus Tanner. It's a pain in the ... to fit everything
where it should be but at last it works.
Suspension: when I bought the car the front springs
and dampers were replaced by some that were 7-8 inches too long, the catch above was
welded higher on and several several other catches were welded to the frame to
prevent the wheels to jump too high or fall too low. The king-pins were quite worn:
the rims of the weels moved freely an inch too and fro. Replaced, renewed
springs and dampers.
Suspenion now OK, although perhaps the dampers might be somewhat firmer.
2004 mounted Spax-dampers, much better.
2005 after some problems the Spaxes perform very well, still testing how firm I
will have to trim them but the car behaves better than ever now. Still I
have a small king-pin-problem on the right but could be repaired spring 2006.
Repaired with a new king pin and a replacement flailing arm (thanks David Womack).
Temperature: Also caused quite some problems, the
radiator was recored, as was the otter-switch as was the
electric fan itself. Found a very good replacement for the fan by using
the fan of a VW Golf. Simply had to drill the tree holes a little wider
and it fits perfectly. Doesn't "look" classic but works
Meanwhile two (MGB-Anglo-parts) fan motors have blown up and refitted the VW
Golf. Had a part made on a lathe to fit the original blades on a SE5 fan (thanks
Geoff), but I still must fit the motor and fan: perhaps after Northcape?
2005 replaced the fan-engine with one from an MGB (62->80), fits perfectly
and takes the original blade of the fan.
Done some re-wiring too so the fan gets its current over a 20A-wire allways
connected to the tension. So like on modern cars the fan comes up often
after parking the car. Think the MGB-fan-engine does it's job as well as
the VW Golf's did: when running into a queu after a quicker drive the fan comes
up for a minute and then stops again, eventually comes up again but allways gets
the water cool enough to stop turning (temp-gauge showing +/- 90°C otter switch
switching at 92°C)..
Planning to remove the core-plugs and spraying the rust-particles out of the
engine's cooling system. (Arranged 2003).
Runs: OK now 01/05/2001. After using a 12V
coil. Now (2003) replaced it with a 9V-coil with ballast (easy with a
Sabra) and an electronic ignition (no contact points to replace anymore).
Frame OK should be cleaned.
Gear-box propellor: OK, presume they are original.
Wheels: wirewheels 15' chromed, not original, originally
had 13' wirewheels at the rear
Found (during the years) 3 extra 15' wheels and had 4 torn apart - chromed - nitted
As the spokes were starting to break one after another: bought four new
stainless-chromium-wheels (not original I know) but beautyfull.
Defects: The original steering wheel is broken, welded
and broken again. Nowadays I drive with a replacement-one that I like very
much. Found an original steering wheel but I esitate to put it on the car
as I like the one I'm used to. The Sabra-logo is missing as on the bonnet and on the hub of the
steering wheel. Had (nice) replacements made.
Hood is worn, have no hardtop, 2004 hood is repaired, bought a tonneau cover
from David Womack and had it fitted. Very usefull..
Seats and inside-finishing poor and worn. Renewed the carpets
provisionally (2005) - will hold untill the car will be repainted??
M.O.T. (2001) diagnosed that the left rear wheel could move in-
and out for some mms (sorry).
After dismantling it showed that the bearing of the rear left axle wich should
have been about an inch wide was a little less wide so could shove in and
out. Filled the gap, mounted again and mounted a new oil seal. Seems
fine... passed M.O.T. august 2001.
Still have problems with water-temperature-indicator and fuel-indicator... is being worked
And 2005 is OK: mounted a new Voltage regulator, discovered that it could be
trimmed and now the gauges are stable an consequent, only the fuel-gauge might
show a little lower. I learn that the gauges can be trimmed individually
but but the trimming screw is stuck... must take some time for it.
Replaced: or had thoroughly serviced: front springs and
dampers, the system to adjust the right-seat (was missing), several oil-seals,
carburettor-jets, floating-chamber needles and seats, clutch master and slave-cylinder,
brake master cylinder and front brake cylinders and one rear, fuel-pump valves and
diaphragm, finishing of the doors, had a new core fitted in the radiator,
mounted a new electric cooling fan , and a new otter-switch,
fuel- tank is cleaned, renewed the outlet-collector, renewed the rear part of
the outlet, mounted an electric fuel-pump to discover that the "fuel-problem" was
caused by the
iginition coil, now repaired (Voeren-meeting 2001), recently 21/05/2001 fitted a
new "Sabra"-logo on the back, looks fine;
21/05/2001 also fitted a fuel-filter wich fits in the kind of glass-bowl
(Jaguar) also nice.
Fitted new oil seal left rear wheel (August 2001).
Refurbished the inside of the steering gear, some bronze bushes replaced made a
world of difference.
By re-introducing the steering-rod ruined the horn-switch, replace the latter
one by one that I bought 25y ago
Glued the new-made Sabra-emblems on the hood and the steering boss, looks a lot
Fitted a new cigar-lighter, mounted a nice rear-sight mirror.
Had quite some problems with dynamo's recently, looking for a
pulley with the right "looks".
Fitted new main-beams and mirrors, and halogen-bulbs
Waiting (and looking) for: plastic
caps for the headlights, etc..
: F Steering arms ?? - bushes - excessive play
2006 MOT the man
noticed that when turning the steering wheel from left to right, before any
movement was passed from the steering gear rack (200090) to the steering rods
(200700) the idler bracket shaft (200176) moved forwards when turning right and
backwards when turning left. Picture of steering system
First suspect was the idler bracket which I thought would be stopped from moving
for-aft by something. The pic showed two thick felt washers, no other
device to stop for-aft movement. See pics: When the connection between steering
gear rack and idler arm was removed the idler bracket could freely move for-aft
squeezing the felt washers.
This lead to the
conclusion that the for-aft-movement of the idler bracket was to be stopped by
something else: Not the track rods i.e. so suspicion went to the combination:
steering gear rack, link-steering gear (200960), and its bushes.
As all was dismantled I soon found quite some play between the bush in part
200072 (steeering gear rack end[LHD]) and the UNFB409A.
As the steering damper was intended to hamper or "damp" (quick)
movements of the steering rack and it is attached excentrically (from the rack)
to the end of UNFB409A it could cause a for-aft movement on the other
(right) side of the link-steering-gear.
I noticed that part 200072 held a bush in it, in fact two bushes, the outer
fitting inside 200072 inside the outer there was a rubber bush and inside the
rubber bush another metal bush with 3/8 inside dimension. See rightmost bush on
the pic: John Valler sold it to me last year (2006-Goodwood)
Glad I bought it because for weeks now I've been trying to
locate another spare but in vain.
|The above shown bush should be fitted in 200072:
|But the bush was little too wide, perhaps could have
fitted it by heating 200072 and freezing the bush but I didn't dear so I
sawed a groove in the outer bush and I filed one side down so it would
get more easy in part 200072. Pushed it in on a vice, needed quite
|As the bush was to fit between the two legs of the
"H" 28,3mm wide and the inside bush was 31,1mm and the outside
29,1 I filed them a little shorter before pushing them in:
|Other way to look at it.
|Fitted, btw the thread of 200072 is 1/2' UNF
|And fitted on the car used an 12cm long UNF 3/8 bolt
to lock the steering gear rack end, the link steering gear
("H" - 200960) and the damper together.
|On the other side of the "H" part 200960, there
was a shouldered bolt (part 200956) (Pin Idler Arm) connecting the
200960 link to the idler bracket rear arm (200071). When removing
it, some years ago I thought it was a UNF 3/8 bolt with a bush shoven
over it. As I ruined it trying to remove the bush, I replaced it now
with a new-made bush outer width 13,5mm, inner 3/8 ' and 38,3mm length.
The 3/8 bolt simply holds the bush in it's place within the
"H". !!Could be I drilled the holes in the
"H" and the idler arm wider... to 13,5mm to catch the
: F Steering arms ?? - king pins
At MOT they had been pointing me last years at some play on the
right king pin. Not terribly much but still play.
Over the years - also me - by replacing the king pins - swivel
pins by non-original ones, handmade, but not hardened (expensive) there had come
some play between the swivel pin itself and the flailing arm, partly because me,
and a mecanic later, used a cotter pin that was too small to lock the swivel pin
Anyway, though normally there's play, wear, between the swivel
pin and the bronze bushes, in my case there was play between king pin and
bushes, but also play between king pin and flailing arm. Very small
because I had a larger cotter pin made, that held the king pin almost fixed. But
any play between flailing arm an swivel pin makes the (hardened) king pin hammer
into the bushes so this really had to be fixed.
Bought king pins with John Davis but the repair was only
possible after I got two flailing arms from David
David replaces the flailing arms with newer Triumph suspension arms so flailing
arms are rubbish for him, I'm lucky he threw away some rubbish in my direction.
This meant I had to remove my right flailing arm. Went
Removed the wheel, loosened the brake pipe, removed the cotter
pin, emoved the dust cover of the king pin, hammered out the swivel pin - with
ease - and removed the wheel assembly.
Removing the flailing arm was quite easy:
Though it hadn't been off in fourthy years the 5971 loosened
quite easy and I tapped out the 206078 quite easyly to the rear.
The flaling arm then quite easyly came out tilting it to the
To be completed
2007: It's now for two years that I'm having problems with the
right window. Every now and then, when the window is swung up or down by the
female hand of my wife, the window suddenly sticks and cannot be moved up or
down anymore. The front one of the rollers on the arms has then jumped oud of
the profile that holds the window.
I allways pushed the roller back in the profile and as I saw no
reason for the roller to jump out, just put on the cover again.
Last time I thought that perhaps the roller was pushed out by the bar that goes
from the inner door-opening-handle backwards to the lock.
So I put a thin aluminum plate over the door-opening-bar so that the roller
couldn't possibly get stuck there.
We'll see what happens next year(s).
Picture of the windscreen wiper engine: click to enlarge
On the way back from Northcape I had felt that full power was
missing, after a long climb at 100KM/h the engine showed a lack of power
when overtaking some trucks. No real problem, lots of extra space but a warning.
2000 km further the car couldn't get to 50km/h anymore shows
there was a kink in the fuel lead.
The damages by the towing company are much worse i.e.:
This is the first time I saw the car after it was towed.
The towing company that damaged the car was not the one on the picture but:
I immediately noticed that the frame of the hood on the right side prevented a passenger's entrance (see picture).
Boes really did his job in an unprofessional way: a.o. he left the contact on - everyone knows that this would empty the battery (indeed it was dead and had to be replaced) but he also risked the ground connection of the breaking points to burn.
The bootlid was off the car and was transported in the passenger's cabine of the towing truck.
Picture of the top's frame, the arrows show where the frame had been for the last fourthy years.
This is picture of the left side, where the frame is undistorted.
Picture taken by the towing company before the job started
Foto taken by the same man to show the results of his work.
That's where the hinge was fastened.
The little white spot is where the bootlid encountered the top. How deep are these circular cracks???
The bootlid stay showed compairances with a corkscrew.
At last some work done:
Geoff provided me with the wiring from loom till front lights - in the correct colour.
Shows one can't keep on repairing the repairs.
The length of the wires is best some 80 cm
and there could have been bullit connectors on all ends.
But that's or every different car to be checked.
Arthur Matthyslaan 21
B 2140 Borgerhout
Contact (difficult but avoides SPAM)
See: not the original steering wheel
Some chromium mounted again may 2001.
And invisibly fastened, should come the "Sabra"-text
and the lock of the hood. may 2001
The "Sabra" is back!
On such a green background red would be nicer may 2001.
Mail me if you have tips or hints of any kind